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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.